September 2022 - Page 14 of 15 - First Washington News

September 4, 2022

The 50-Year-Old Fashion Book That Still Feels Radical Today

In our rule-absolutely free, anything’s-a-development globe, you’d think the last issue we require is a reserve telling ladies how to get dressed.

And yet! Claire McCardell’s What Shall I Have on? The What, Wherever, When, and How A lot of Style, a witty and slender e-book initial launched in 1957 and now back in print with an introduction by Tory Burch, is the very best and most thoughtful vogue ebook I have study this 12 months.

The new edition of McCardell’s e-book, first published in 1957.

Courtesy of Tory Burch.

McCardell was an American designer for the duration of an era most armchair historians are inclined to affiliate with the couture glories of Paris. And her name might not be as recognizable as fellow People Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, or Donna Karan. But the styles she produced in the 1940s and ’50s, prior to she died of colon most cancers in 1957, had been some of fashion’s most groundbreaking. Spaghetti straps, the ballet flat, and pockets and zippers on attire were all McCardell improvements.

“What’s so fascinating is that 75 a long time immediately after the truth, it does glimpse so appropriate for how women of all ages want to dress,” reflects Burch. “It’s definitely attention-grabbing, the way she gave girls the skill to be unencumbered and free of charge, [but also] to seem at fashion much more as an personal. That was one thing that I truly admire.”

McCardell’s shapes had been joyful but in no way absurd. She experienced the self-assurance to be simple.

In her e-book, McCardell is component fashion thinker, part field hand, and component type expert. Coincidentally, her words and phrases go through as a sort of sustainable style bible (even even though modifications in producing and innovations in synthetics imply that a “cheap” costume from her era is much additional liable to final than a “cheap” 1 from now). Most delightfully—frankly, most powerfully—she urges women not to undertake a situation of anti-trend or manner skeptic, the pose well-known today that encourages women of all ages to justification them selves thoroughly from appreciating fashion’s whims, trends, and natural beauty.

“I shall urge you to be brave,” she writes, after a sobering couple of internet pages checking out fashion’s frivolities. “Look at new fashions and see if they can be yours. Exam the way they healthy, really feel, look—how they are supposed to be worn—how you will dress in them. You will find you have enormous choice…. Examine Trend and say No if you are temperamentally incapable of setting up a trend.”

McCardell’s work, like her knowledge, had a actually singular combine of pragmatism and glamour. “She constantly considered about females,” states Burch. “She was an remarkable feminist just before feminism was definitely mainstream.” She experienced a way of using geometric traces and plaids to make flattering dynamism her perception of shade was understated but potent, declarative. Her designs were joyful but in no way absurd. She had the self esteem to be clear-cut.

Courtesy of Tory Burch.

Burch is a McCardellite through and by way of. Soon after to start with coming across the designer’s work in her artwork background experiments at the College of Pennsylvania, she observed herself wondering about her once more when her spouse, Pierre-Yves Roussel, took about as CEO in 2019. “I gave up that title and job, and was equipped to basically have some time to assume about structure,” she clarifies. “I needed to test to make it a very little far more private to me.”

McCardell was one particular of the initial figures who came to brain. For her Spring 2022 collection, she made a handful of gingham and plaid dresses made in homage to McCardell, with a equipped waistline and pleated skirt in a breezy silk. It’s a single of the several attire I have tried on in the past many decades that has in shape me like a glove, necessitating no visits to the tailor, and basically generating me look far better as a substitute of merely cooler—as I place it to Burch, when I place it on, I feel as nevertheless it enhances me. (She ongoing the structure for the slide time.)

The explanation for this was McCardell’s personal inherent modernity. Her patterns had been feminine and occasionally intimate, but primarily they had been potent and functional. Large vogue designers now too rarely believe about how materials and silhouettes could possibly enhance or in shape into a woman’s everyday living, rather focusing on commerciality or wild creativity. “She wasn’t hunting to couture in Paris,” says Burch. “In reality, they had been searching at her. And she was heading against each and every stereotype, every single norm, and borrowing from activity. And also from menswear—I’ve always been fascinated with that feminine-masculine strategy of what it implies to build your very own design and style.”

Burch, also, admires McCardell’s emphasis on doing work with relatively than close to (or even oblivious to) a woman’s human body: “Her styles,” she explains, “were celebrating a woman’s physique. She was expressing that some items work for you and some factors really don’t.”

Courtesy of Tory Burch.

Genevieve Naylor

Potentially McCardell’s most related legacy is the truth that she wrote a reserve at all. McCardell believed that trend was not something for the quite handful of, whether or not they be quite passionate or extremely rich or both equally. The function of the reserve, and McCardell’s clothes, as well, was, as Burch put it, to help all women of all ages “feel extra assured. And I think when dresses get far too difficult or too precious—which I also enjoy by the way, I’m not having away from that—it’s not as understandable for some women of all ages. There’s almost nothing improved for me to hear that when somebody wears our selection, they experience extra confident and they truly feel like a greater edition of on their own.”

Girls now are active, “as they have been back again in the forties and fifties, in a distinctive way,” she carries on. “But they do not want to target on just the way they look all the time. They want go out and they want to feel seriously stylish and set together. That is not a natural [gift] for some persons. I think that to be able to clear up individuals difficulties and give men and women a selection in which they can make it their possess and blend and match it is a thing that I have often been interested in.”

That notion of clothes as a support for women feels novel even nowadays, when it usually feels like your only two solutions are Shein stan or style victim. As Burch place it, “It’s quick to fail to remember how radical Claire was.”

Rachel Tashjian is the Trend News Director at Harper’s Bazaar, performing across print and digital platforms. Formerly, she was GQ’s initial fashion critic, and worked as deputy editor of GARAGE and as a author at Vainness Honest. She has prepared for publications such as Bookforum and Artforum, and is the creator of the invitation-only publication Opulent Guidelines.

September 3, 2022

Are children more likely to share mental health concerns with a robot?

A silhouette of a person against a green backdrop of binary code — New research shows that a “child-like robot” was able to detect mental health concerns in children with more accuracy than humans. Aitor Diago/Getty Images

The growing youth mental health crisis highlights a need for early detection and treatment of mental health disorders.
A new study by University of Cambridge researchers found that socially assistive robots (SARs) could serve as a potential diagnostic tool for mental health.
According to the researchers, the study is the first time robots have been used to asses children’s mental well-being.
The study shows that robots were more likely to identify cases of well-being anomalies than self-reports filled by children or reports made by their parents.
Still, researchers did not use robots to deliver mental health interventions, but rather, to detect and diagnose children’s mental health concerns.

Even before the pandemic, an estimated 4.4{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} of children (about 2.7 million) between the ages of three and 17 had been diagnosed with depression in the United States, according to the National Survey of Children’s Health. The same survey found about 9.4{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} (about 5.8 million) of children had been diagnosed with anxiety.

Experts believe that stress from COVID-19 has led to increased depression and anxiety in young people.

Mental health-related emergency room visits for children ages 5 to 11 increased by 24{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} in 2020 compared to the year prior, according to a report from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Among children between the ages of 12 and 17, visits increased by 31{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809}.

At the same time, adequate mental health care and access are still lacking in the U.S.

Nearly 91 million Americans live in regions with shortages of mental health providers, according to the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration, which estimates a minimum of 1,846 psychiatrists and 5,931 other practitioners are needed to fill the gap.

Recently, a group of researchers from the University of Cambridge studied the effects of socially assistive robots (SARs), which could potentially serve as an assessment and diagnostic tool in areas where mental health professionals are in short supply.

Their work was presented this week at the 2022 IEEE International Conference on Robots and Human Interactive Communication in Naples, Italy.

For the study, researchers selected 28 children from Cambridgeshire, England, ages 8 to 13 years old. Among the participants, 21 were female and 7 were male with an average age of 9.5.

Children who had already been diagnosed with neurological or psychological disorders were excluded from the research.

First, the participants answered about their well-being on an online questionnaire. Additionally, parents or guardians answered a questionnaire about the well-being of their children.

Later, the young participants spent 45 minutes with a Nao robot, created by SoftBank Robotics. The robot then administered the Short Mood and Feelings Questionnaire, which measures symptoms of depression, and the Revised Child Anxiety and Depression Scale.

Additionally, the robot asked the children about happy and sad memories they experienced over the last week and administered a task where children were shown pictures and then asked questions about them.

The researchers found that questionnaires conducted by robots were more likely to identify cases of well-being anomalies than the children’s online self-reports or parent or guardian reports.

Some participants shared information with the robot that they did not share via self-report.

Study co-author Prof. Hatice Gunes, Ph.D., a professor of affective intelligence and robotics and head of the Affective Intelligence and Robotics Lab at the University of Cambridge, explained to Medical News Today that among participants, “the group that might have some well-being related concerns” were more likely to provide negative response ratings during the robot-led questionnaires.

“The interesting finding here is when they interact with the robot their responses become more negative,” Prof. Gunes noted.

Socially assistive robots have previously demonstrated potential as a tool to improve the accessibility of care, the researchers explain in their paper. For instance, a 2020 study illustrated that robots may be helpful in assessing risk factors for autism spectrum disorder (ASD).

“Robots have been used for various tasks — and they’ve been shown to be effective in certain things because they have this physical embodiment, unlike a mobile phone or a virtual character or even videos,” Prof. Gunes said.

And despite the potential dangers of allowing a child too much time with an electronic device, working one-on-one with a robot is different from screentime, Prof. Gunes noted.

“This is a physical interaction, right? So, it’s not virtual. It’s not a video — they’re physically interacting with a physical entity,” she said.

Prof. Gunes also pointed to a key aspect of the study: the “child-like robot” used for the research was less than 2 feet tall.

“Here we have a child-looking and child-sounding robot. “In such situations, children actually see the robot more as a peer. So, it’s not an adult that is trying to get some information out of them.”

– Prof. Hatice Gunes, Ph.D., professor of affective intelligence and robotics at the University of Cambridge

Diane Hodge, Ph.D., LCSW, director of the school of social work at Radford University in Virginia, said she’s used puppets and dolls to help make her pediatric clients feel more at ease while she worked as a clinical social worker earlier in her career.

Robots, she told MNT, are the 21st-century equivalent of those puppets.

“I’m all about technology that really enhances and helps people,” Hodge said. “More kids today are just so used to it that they expect it.”

Hodge also pointed out that in the study, the researchers did not use a robot to deliver mental health care interventions, but rather, to assess the well-being of children. “This is just to get people access,” she said.

Hodge also highlighted how the Nao robot was able to successfully identify more “well-being-related anomalies” in children compared to those revealed by humans. “[That] shows that if we had done nothing, right, they wouldn’t have caught that,” she said.

According to Prof. Gunes, her research interests evolved after having a baby in 2018. “I think I became more sensitive to child-related issues and their well-being,” she said.

In the future, Prof. Gunes said the researchers hope to study how children respond to interacting with a diagnostic robot over video chat.

Already, researchers are preparing to conduct a study similar to the one they presented at the conference only with a more equal ratio of male and female participants, according to Prof. Gunes.

“We want to see actually if the findings are consistent across genders,” she said.

Posted on September 3, 2022
Several prominent Russian businessmen have died by apparent suicide in just three months

Before this yr, the company took the unconventional public stance of talking out from Russia’s war in Ukraine, calling for sympathy for the victims, and for the conclude of the conflict.

Lukoil’s chairman Ravil Maganov died this week soon after falling out of the window of a hospital in Moscow, in accordance to Russian point out information company TASS.

Lukoil verified the demise on Thursday in a assertion published on its web-site.

Maganov “passed absent pursuing a intense illness,” Lukoil mentioned, generating no point out of a tumble. “Maganov immensely contributed to the progress of not only the company, but of the full Russian oil and fuel sector.”

Yet another prime Lukoil manager, Alexander Subbotin, was found lifeless around Moscow in Could after reportedly visiting a shaman, TASS noted. Russia’s Condition Information Company quoted an formal as declaring authorities were identified as to an unconscious man struggling from a coronary heart failure. TASS noted the police opened a legal investigation into the case.

Backlinks with Gazprom

In the very first of the deaths documented this calendar year, a top rated government at Gazprom was found useless in his cottage in the village of Leninsky in the vicinity of Leningrad on January 30, 2022, in accordance to Russian condition media outlet RIA Novosti.

RIA noted that a suicide take note was located at the scene and that the investigators were investigating the dying as a suicide. Russian national broadcaster RenTv has identified the man as Leonid Shulman, the head of transportation at Gazprom Make investments.

Just a thirty day period immediately after that, yet another leading executive at Gazprom was identified useless in the exact village. Alexander Tyulakov was learned lifeless in his garage on February 25, in accordance to Novaya Gazeta, an unbiased Russian newspaper. Novaya Gazeta described he died by suicide.

CNN’s phone calls to Gazprom have not been returned.

CNN has asked Russia’s Investigative Committee for comment on the two scenarios but has not received a response.

Two far more Russian businessmen with hyperlinks to Gazprom died in obvious murder-suicide incidents in April.

A person of them, Vladislav Avayev, the former vice-president of Gazprombank, was discovered lifeless with his wife and daughter in his Moscow condominium on April 18, according to TASS.

Citing a source in legislation enforcement, TASS claimed authorities had been investigating the Avayevs’ deaths as a murder-suicide.

Yulia Ivanova, a consultant of the Investigative Committee for Moscow, was quoted by Tass as indicating that a relative learned the Avayevs’ bodies following currently being advised by the household driver and the nanny that they could not call them on the telephone or get into the condominium, due to the fact the door was shut from the within.

Igor Volobuev, a former VP of Gazprombank who a short while ago still left Russia for Ukraine, told CNN that he did not believe Avayev killed himself.

“His work was to offer with personal banking, that suggests dealing with VIP shoppers. He was in cost of pretty huge amounts of revenue. So, did he destroy himself? I don’t believe so. I consider he knew anything and that he posed some sort of possibility,” Volobuev explained to CNN in April.

Russia’s Investigative Committee did not respond to CNN’s request for remark on this situation.

Just a working day later on, on April 19, Sergey Protosenya, a former executive at the fuel producer Novatek, which is partly owned by Gazprom, was found dead at his household in Lloret de Mar, a Mediterranean vacation resort around Barcelona.

The bodies of his spouse and daughter, demonstrating signs of having experienced violence, have been located inside the family’s luxury house, an formal resource shut to the investigation explained to CNN very last week, when the overall body of Protosenya was located in the backyard garden outside the house, in accordance to the source.

Son thoughts original results

Catalan law enforcement in the province of Girona, in which the town of Lloret de Mar is located, advised CNN on Friday that they have because finished their investigation into the case and despatched the results to a courtroom.

The police power explained its summary was that the deaths were a double murder and subsequent suicide.

Speaking to the Daily Mail in April, Protosenya’s son questioned that version of occasions, suggesting as a substitute that his father was murdered.

“The Catalan law enforcement have taken statements from the son. Other hypotheses have been ruled out. Also ruled out was a triple murder,” the police’s press formal instructed CNN at that time. “That this was the operate of the Russian mafia? Very well, no,” the official extra.

Novatek, Protosenya’s previous employer, mentioned he was “a fantastic individual and a excellent family male.”

“Regrettably, there have been speculations on this subject in the media, but we are persuaded that these speculations are not relevant to reality. We hope that the law enforcement companies of Spain will perform a complete and aim investigation and sort out what occurred, ” the business mentioned in a statement.

Coroner’s ruling

Mikhail Watford, a Ukrainian-born Russian oil and gas billionaire, was found lifeless in his dwelling in Surrey, England on February 28.

Surrey Police told CNN it did not think there ended up any suspicious conditions.

A further Russian businessman, Vasily Melnikov, was uncovered lifeless along with his relatives in Nizhny Novgorod in late March, in accordance to the Russian newspaper Kommersant.

Melnikov owned MedStom, a health-related provides company. According to Russia’s Investigative Committee, a 43-calendar year-previous guy, his wife, 41, and two small children aged 4 and 10 ended up located stabbed to dying on March 23.

The committee did not title Melnikov, but the ages of the useless and the place of the incident match the Kommersant report.

The regional branch of the investigative committee has not current the status of its investigation and did not return CNN’s request for comment. At the time of the incident, in March, it explained there “had been no signals of unauthorized entry into the apartment,” and that “knives had been discovered and seized.”

“[Investigators] are thinking of many variations of what transpired, including the murder of the youngsters and spouse by the head of the loved ones, adopted by self-inflicted death,” the committee explained.

How to get aid: In the United States, call the Countrywide Suicide Avoidance Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255. The Global Affiliation for Suicide Avoidance and Befrienders Worldwide also can provide get in touch with facts for disaster centers around the entire world.

CNN’s Uliana Pavlova, Anna Chernova, Frederik Pleitgen, Chris Liakos, Julia Horowitz, Zahid Mahmood and Al Goodman contributed reporting.

Posted on September 3, 2022
What Fashion Designers Need to Know Today

Discover the most relevant industry news and insights for fashion designers, updated each month to enable you to excel in job interviews, promotion conversations or perform better in the workplace by increasing your market awareness and emulating market leaders.

BoF Careers distils business intelligence from across the breadth of our content — editorial briefings, newsletters, case studies, podcasts and events — to deliver key takeaways and learnings tailored to your job function, listed alongside a selection of the most exciting live jobs advertised by BoF Careers partners.

Key articles and need-to-know insights for design professionals today:

1. How Does a Brand Like Louis Vuitton Choose a New Designer?

Louis Vuitton has spent nearly a year searching for a successor for Virgil Abloh, who passed away in November 2021 at just 41 years old. (Getty Images)

The most important thing is that candidates are able to establish a clear point of view. If they have their own label, they also need to convince recruiters that they have the skills to simultaneously turn out two separate, differentiated visions, even if they are linked by an underlying approach.

Increasingly, a candidate’s personal brand is also a factor. If they have their own following and can bring that following along for the ride that can be seen as a big plus. [Virgil] Abloh did this exceptionally well. Gabriela Hearst, too, has brought the eco-consciousness at the core of her personal brand to her work at Chloé with some success (Her Nama sneaker, made from low-impact materials, is a best-seller.)

Related Jobs:

Head of Design, Sahara — London, United Kingdom

Concept Design and Styling Lead, Ralph Lauren — New York, United States

Design Manager, Aje — Sydney, Australia

2. Why Eileen Fisher’s Approach to Sustainable Fashion Works

Eileen Fisher | Source: Shutterstock Eileen Fisher. (Shutterstock)

Eileen Fisher’s earliest and most important innovation was to take a concept that was percolating in luxury circles — minimalist capsule wardrobes — and make it accessible to a broader group of people. Today, brands at every price point tout their tightly curated collections of elevated basics, but Fisher was there on the ground floor.

Fisher [also] had the luxury of devoting so much time to circularity before there was an obvious payoff with consumers — and to weather periods where sales were in decline — in large part because she has not taken outside investment (the brand, profitable in all but a handful of years since its founding, is employee-owned). This is perhaps why there are about 60 Eileen Fisher stores instead of 600, and why sales topped out at $500 million instead of $5 billion.

Related Jobs:

Production Manager, Completedworks — London, United Kingdom

Junior Manager of Sustainable Packaging, Zalando — Berlin, Germany

Sustainable Design Director, Coach — New York, United States

3. Why Hermès’ MetaBirkins Lawsuit Has High Stakes for Brands and Creators

The MetaBirkins, which aren’t by Hermès or even really bags. (Mason Rothschild)

The [MetaBirkins] case is already shaping how the industry thinks about NFTs from a legal perspective. In his order, the judge made clear that NFTs, despite being code pointing to an image, can qualify as artistic expression, which means — importantly — they could be protected as free speech by the first amendment to the US constitution, according to Felicia Boyd, US head of IP brands at law firm Norton Rose Fulbright. Commodities such as mass-produced reprints of artwork do not receive that protection.

The court [also] acknowledged there is a distinction between the MetaBirkins and a digital wearable. It’s still unclear if any eventual decision would address whether the law should treat them differently, but the point is hardly moot when digital creators are making and selling items for use in online spaces from Roblox to The Sandbox, a new blockchain-based world.

Related Jobs:

CAD Assistant, A-Cold-Wall — London, United Kingdom

Digital Art Director, Acne Studios — Stockholm, Sweden

3D Design Assistant, Calvin Klein — New York, United States

4. Eco-Fashion’s Next Big Idea: Turn Pollution Into Products

A dress from Zara’s capsule collection containing materials derived from captured carbon. (Zara)

Efforts to develop materials from captured emissions are nascent, in many cases still in development in the lab. Products currently on the market typically contain only a small amount of recycled carbon and face significant financial and structural barriers to scale.

A landmark climate bill signed into law in the US this month could help change that. […] The Inflation Reduction Act is a sweeping package of legislation that represents the most aggressive action on climate ever taken by the US government. It’s designed to pump hundreds of billions of dollars into technologies that will help the country meet global climate goals, among them carbon capture.

Related Jobs:

Kidswear Designer, Zara — La Coruña, Spain

Design Intern, By Malene Birger — Bredgade, Denmark

Ready-to-Wear Design Consultant, Lingua Franca — New York, United States

5. The Great Fashion Show Boom

The finale of Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2022 Haute Couture show. (Indigital)

This year, luxury’s biggest brands came swinging out of lockdowns, with Dior staging a staggering eight runway shows since January 2022, up from seven during the same period in 2019. Chanel and Louis Vuitton have both turned out five this year. While top spenders are flown out and seated in the front row in the hopes that they’ll drop six figures on one collection, the content those very important customers and other attendees create reads as far more authentic than content conceived solely for the internet.

However, spectacular fashion shows typically cost millions of euros to produce, so the biggest brands have an advantage. It’s perhaps no surprise that Dior — which generated around $7 billion in sales in 2021, according to estimates, and is thought to be the fastest-growing megalabel over the past 12 months — has staged the most shows of any other during that same period.

Related Jobs:

Design Assistant, Prada Group — Milan, Italy

Designer, Vetements — Zurich, Switzerland

Showroom Designer, PVH — Amsterdam, Netherlands

6. What Designers Can Learn From Issey Miyake

There are profound lessons for fashion designers around the world embedded in the life and work of the Japanese innovator, whose death was announced this week, writes Angelo Flaccavento. (Getty Images)

[One Issey] Miyake lesson: ditch nostalgia. Since he established Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo in 1970, [the designer] has been constantly moving forward, channelling countless advancements in construction and fabrication. Resolutely rooted in the moment, he kept looking ahead rather than back, whilst still nurturing an acute awareness of past traditions.

Creating clothing that moves instead of just looking good in a static image — the main curse of contemporary fashion making — was another key Miyake achievement. The flowing shapes and volumes he conceived were meant to float around the body; his silhouettes were never static, because movement was always part of his creative process. So was the space between his clothing and the body. Miyake’s epic collaboration with Irving Penn was a testament to that.

Related Jobs:

Senior Fashion Designer, Anest Collective — Milan, Italy

Fashion Design Intern, Deity New York — New York, United States

Associate Designer, White House Black Market — Fort Myers, United States

7. Explainer — Why the Menswear Market Is on Fire

Menswear sales at luxury retailer Matches Fashion are up 40 percent compared to this time last year. (Joachim Mueller)

The menswear boom is driven largely by a fashion reset. The casualisation of menswear had begun far prior to the pandemic, but the new work-from-home lifestyle that emerged in 2020 has cemented new silhouettes that prioritise comfort.

Lower barriers to entry and the proliferation of social media created opportunities for new brands to launch. New luxury cult brands like Aimé Leon Dore have captured the zeitgeist of contemporary menswear, capitalising on trends like “blokecore” — a viral subculture that celebrates the style of middle-aged men, like wide-legged jeans, quilted cardigans, polo shirts and bucket hats. The blokecore hashtag has over 27 million views on TikTok.

Related Jobs:

Head of Menswear, Hugo Boss — Stuttgart, Germany

Accessory Designer, Peter Millar — Los Angeles, United States

Men’s Associate Designer, Figs — Santa Monica, United States

8. How to Let Shoppers Know Your Brand Is Worth the Money

In the event of an economic downturn, brands will bank on messaging that brands their products as a good value for consumers. (Shutterstock)

Despite all the bad economic headlines, consumer spending remains strong in the US and some other major markets. But retailers are worried that their customers will soon start watching their wallets, particularly when it comes to non-essential fashion and beauty purchases.

To make the case effectively, labels must do more than introduce some new buzzwords to their ads. They will have to strengthen their brand’s narrative, make sure they are merchandising around truly timeless pieces rather than chasing trends, and get honest in their marketing.

Related Jobs:

Print Designer, Stella McCartney — London, United Kingdom

Atelier Design Intern, Gauge81 — Amsterdam, Netherlands

Associate Ready-to-Wear Designer, Veronica Beard — New York, United States

Posted on September 2, 2022
Regular exercise may help women live longer, regardless of their genes

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California researchers found that physical activity of any intensity may lower the risk of death in women older than 60, regardless of their genetic propensity for longevity. Rob and Julia Campbell/Stocksy

Health experts state that staying active can contribute to healthy aging in older adults.

California researchers found that physical activity of any intensity may lower the risk of death in women older than 60 years.

Their nationwide study also uncovered more evidence that more sedentary behaviors carry greater mortality risk, regardless of genetic propensity for longevity.

The authors hope these findings will encourage older women to be active to reduce the risk of diseases and premature death.

In the United States, the National Center for Health Statistics estimates the life expectancies of males and females are 74.5 years and 80.2 years, respectively. For healthy aging, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) states that physical activity is key.

To find out whether physical activity had an advantage over genetics in promoting longevity, researchers at the Herbert Wertheim School of Public Health and Human Longevity Science at the University of California San Diego and other institutions conducted a nationwide study.

After analyzing health data of more than 5,000 older postmenopausal women, the researchers found that higher levels of light, moderate, or vigorous physical activity correlated with a lower risk of all-cause deaths. The findings expanded on prior studies that have shown that more sedentary time carries greater health risks.

These associations persisted across varying levels of genetic potential for living longer.

“[The] findings support the importance of higher physical activity (PA) and lower sedentary time (ST) for reducing mortality risk in older women, regardless of [their] genetic predisposition for longevity,” the researchers wrote.

Their prospective study was recently published in the Journal of Aging and Physical Activity.

From 2012 to 2020, the UC San Diego researchers analyzed data on the physical activity of more than 5,000 ambulatory women ages 63 and older.

Lead author Alexander Posis, MPH, a doctoral student in the San Diego State University/UC San Diego Joint Doctoral Program in Public Health, explained the significance of the OPACH study to Medical News Today:

“Our study used pre-existing data from the Objective Physical Activity and Cardiovascular Health (OPACH) study, which is part of the Women’s Health Initiative (WHI) that started in the early 1990s because women had not been included in many epidemiologic studies and clinical trials.”

– Alexander Posis, MPH, lead author of the study

The OPACH study focused on associations between physical activity, cardiovascular disease, and injury risks. The data generated allowed researchers to look at physical activity and the risk of mortality, cancers, cognitive decline, and physical disability as well.

Other research using the OPACH study found associations with physical activity (PA), sedentary time (ST), and mortality during an average follow-up of 3 years. However, no one had explored any possible genetic influence on these associations.

The UC San Diego study aimed to use a follow-up of 6 years and adjust the results with a “weighted genetic risk score (GRS) for longevity.”

Activity, variants, and covariates

OPACH participants wore an accelerometer 24 hours per day for 7 consecutive days.

The device measured the amount of time the women spent moving or being still and the intensity of any activity.

The researchers defined total PA “as movement resulting in energy expenditure.” They categorized PA intensity and ST minutes using predetermined cut points applied to the accelerometer counts.

Choosing longevity genes

Genome-wide association studies (GWAS) have linked multiple single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs), or genetic variants, to longevity.

The UC San Diego cohort developed a weighted GRS based on three SNPs strongly associated with long life. This metric compared survival to age 90 versus death before age 90.

Covariates and comorbidities

Covariates, or characteristics among the study’s participants, included age, education level, body mass index (BMI), self-reported health status, and other details. Participants’ race was also a factor but was limited to white, Black, and Hispanic ethnicities.

The study also analyzed chronic conditions present before or after participation, including cancer, depression, frequent falls, and cardiovascular disease.

Of the 5,446 women in the present study’s sample, 1,022 passed away during follow-up.

The authors determined that 36{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} of the total population had a high GRS, 33.1{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} had a medium GRS, and 30.9{cfdf3f5372635aeb15fd3e2aecc7cb5d7150695e02bd72e0a44f1581164ad809} had a low GRS for longevity.

The researchers firstly found that physical activity, of light or moderate-to-vigorous intensity, was associated with a lower risk of death while higher ST was associated with a higher risk of death. Interestingly, these associations persisted regardless of one’s genetic predisposition for longevity.

Interestingly, the low-GRS individuals were younger, more active, and had higher physical functioning scores than the other GRS groups. Those with low GRS were also “more likely to be of Black race/ethnicity than the medium and high GRS groups.”

“Our study showed that, even if you aren’t likely to live long based on your genes, you can still extend your lifespan by engaging in positive lifestyle behaviors such as regular exercise and sitting less,” Aladdin H. Shadyab, PhD, the study’s senior author and assistant professor at the Herbert Wertheim School of Public Health and Human Longevity Science, said in a news release.

Historically, women have been significantly underrepresented in clinical trials. Using data from the OPACH study was a step forward in inclusive research.

However, the resulting lack of male participation created a limitation on the UC San Diego study’s findings.

“Based on the design of our study, we were not able to make any inferences on men. But we hope that future studies will examine these associations in study cohorts that include men as well as those in younger age groups,” Posis told MNT.

Dr. Scott Kaiser, a geriatrician and director of Geriatric Cognitive Health for the Pacific Neuroscience Institute at Providence Saint John’s Health Center in Santa Monica, CA, told MNT the work is a “well-done study [… with] a lot of great data.” However, he cautioned that the current study is an association study and not designed to prove causality.

“I think this just supports an increasing amount of evidence that our genes are not our destiny […] It shows that there is a stronger association between longevity with physical activity than [with] genetics,” Dr. Kaiser said.

Noting that the present study focused on only certain markers of longevity, Dr. Kaiser added that researchers need to determine other such factors. For instance, he said that the SNPs used to calculate the GRS were more common among people of European ancestry.

Is ‘sedentary’ a misnomer?

Dr. Kaiser said the term “sedentary time” might not be appropriate. It does not account for people who are unable to walk but can still engage in other physical activities such as chair exercises.

“It’s whether you just have some consistent physical activity versus somebody who’s overall physically inactive,” he said.

Dr. Kaiser hopes the public will understand that genetics do not trump a healthy lifestyle for reducing disease and mortality risk.

“When it comes to healthy aging, exercise is about the closest thing we have to a miracle drug,” he said.

“The whole take of this [study] is that even if you could go to your doctor and get a fancy genetic test to see whether or not you have markers of longevity, it doesn’t matter as much as whether you get up off the couch and exercise on a regular basis.”

– Dr. Scott Kaiser, geriatrician and director of Geriatric Cognitive Health for the Pacific Neuroscience Institute in Santa Monica, CA

Posted on September 2, 2022
Fox News hosts deposed in voting tech company’s $1.6 billion lawsuit against network

Legal professionals for Dominion Voting Units notified Fox News very last week that it would be deposing host Tucker Carlson Wednesday, courtroom filings display. They also sought Sean Hannity’s deposition past 7 days, and Fox Organization Community host Maria Bartiromo is scheduled to appear for a deposition upcoming 7 days, in accordance to court filings.

Each of the hosts are specially mentioned in Dominion’s grievance in opposition to the community.

The depositions come as Dominion operates to gather proof that supports its circumstance that the network defamed the organization by spreading lies about fraud in the 2020 election that damage Dominion’s business enterprise. It can be unclear what the Fox News personalities who have sat with Dominion attorneys claimed or ended up questioned about during their depositions.

Dominion has alleged the community “recklessly disregarded the fact” and participated in a disinformation marketing campaign from it because “the lies were very good for Fox’s small business.”

Fox News has contested these types of promises and said it was “very pleased” of its 2020 election coverage.

“We are self-assured we will prevail as independence of the press is foundational to our democracy and will have to be safeguarded,” a Fox News spokesperson claimed in a assertion about the depositions.

The network extra, “In addition to the damages statements staying outrageous, unsupported and not rooted in seem money investigation, serving as practically nothing more than a flagrant attempt to discourage our journalists from executing their careers.”

A spokesperson for Dominion did not straight away have a comment.

Very last December, a Delaware judge denied Fox News’ motion to dismiss Dominion’s lawsuit.

In the quick aftermath of the 2020 election, then-President Donald Trump falsely asserted that the election experienced been rigged from him. His allies promoted outlandish conspiracy theories about Dominion to guidance Trump’s false promises.

“Fox took a tiny flame” of disinformation and “turned it into a forest hearth,” Dominion claimed in its lawsuit.

“The truth of the matter issues. Lies have implications,” Dominion’s lawsuit extra. “Fox marketed a wrong story of election fraud in get to serve its possess industrial needs, severely injuring Dominion in the process. If this circumstance does not increase to the amount of defamation by a broadcaster, then absolutely nothing does.”

Dominion is 1 of two election technologies businesses to have sued Fox News. Smartmatic, an additional voting technological know-how organization, has submitted a $2.7 billion lawsuit towards the network.

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